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FAQs
  1. Will crash protectors bend the bike's frame?
  2. Do you have to drill the frame?
  3. Do you have to drill the fairing?
  4. What do I use to drill the fairing?
  5. Won't the fairing crack when I drill it?
  6. How do I get the hole in the right place? Is there a template provided?
  7. I don't fancy fitting them myself. Who can do it for me?
  8. Why do you not attach them through existing screw holes?
  9. I don't want to drill my fairing, I want to keep the bike original.
  10. Won't drilling the fairing affect the resale value and make a potential buyer wary that it's been thrashed?
  11. What is the difference between these and “mushrooms”?
  12. I've seen kits with brackets in them, so you don't have to drill the fairing. Why don't R&G use these?
  13. I've received my R1 (or R6) lower kit and there is only one bolt. Why can't the kit be packed correctly?
  14. Why are the crash protectors not available in colours other than black or white?
  15. What is the recommended torque setting for my bike?
  16. So if I fit these I will save my bike from damage?
  17. Well if there are no guarantees then why not leave it to my insurance company to worry about?
  18. Will fitting crash protectors invalidate my warranty?
  19. Surely anodised aluminium protectors would look better?
  20. I've seen crash protectors for my Bandit which bolt to the side of the cylinder head. These look nicer.
  21. Is there a bar going right through the bike?
  22. Do the protectors spin round?
  23. On my VFR800, V-Tec, ZX6R '95-'02, ZX9 C1-E2 is it true I need to change my expansion tank bottle?
  24. Can I get “lower protectors” for bikes other than R1, R6, RSV, Falco, Brutale, Tuono or Agusta?
  25. If I want to fit an R&G toe guard do I need to drill into the underside of the swingarm? Won't that weaken it?


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Will crash protectors bend the bike's frame?
R&G kits are designed to take stresses away from the frame, through the use the bobbins and de-embrittled bolts. They are also attached to the strongest part of the frame. 

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Do you have to drill the frame?
No

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Do you have to drill the fairing?
On some bikes no. On some bikes one side, on some bikes both sides. The hole is covered  as it is only the “neck” of the protector which goes through the fairing.

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What do I use to drill the fairing?
A 16mm,25mm or 28mm (depending on bike) tank cutter, also known as a hole saw or starret cutter. These round cutters are available from DIY stores for between £3 and £5.

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Won't the fairing crack when I drill it?
No, this never happens. If the cutter is sharp it will go through it nice and cleanly. Modern fairings are incredibly flexible.

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How do I get the hole in the right place? Is there a template provided?
Remove fairing, unwind main engine bolt, dab some paint on it, replace fairing. Now you have a guide mark. Drill a pilot hole from the inside outwards. Flip the fairing around and drill the appropriate hole from the outside inwards. There is no template because the method described is more accurate – fairings vary too much in their mass production.

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I don't fancy fitting them myself. Who can do it for me?
R&G have around 200 approved dealers throughout the country. Call them on 01420 521100 for an up-to-date list of fitting centres or search the partners section of the website using the drop down menus.

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Why do you not attach them through existing screw holes?
Existing screw holes are not a strong mounting point. The kit is only as good as the strength of the mounting point.

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I don't want to drill my fairing, I want to keep the bike original.
Which is worse, a hole you don't notice or a smashed fairing and dented frame? On certain models we offer under body frame sliders. Please search the appropriate section of the products menu.

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Won't drilling the fairing affect the resale value and make a potential buyer wary that it's been thrashed?
No, not these days. It is such a common and sensible precaution that it is seen as an enhancement. Leave them on the bike if you sell though!

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What is the difference between these and “mushrooms”?
There are many differences, apart from the aesthetics. The main difference is that mushrooms normally avail themselves of fairing screw holes, and these are inadequate in a significant spill, and will lead to the mushroom pinging off and often cracking the fairing as it does so.

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I've seen kits with brackets in them, so you don't have to drill the fairing. Why don't R&G use these?
Brackets will ‘give” in many crash scenarios, and can dent the frame and/or allow the protector to push onto the fairing and crack it.

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I've received my R1 (or R6) lower kit and there is only one bolt. Why can't the kit be packed correctly?
That is correct. Use this rawlbolt on the LHS and use the existing swingarm pivot nut on the RHS.

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Why are the crash protectors not available in colours other than black or white?
Tests have shown the bobbin material in use to be the most effective at scrubbing speed in crashes and avoiding “digging in”, which would flip the bike. This material is only available in black or white.

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What is the recommended torque setting for my bike?
R&G do not provide these as the use of compression sleeves inside the bobbins enables adequate tightening of the bolts and the bolts will stay secure. For peace of mind use some Loctite or similar. Do not put bodyweight behind tightening as this can damage the bolt and even strip threads in your engine, leading to expensive repair work. In any situation DO NOT EXCEED 40 Nm of torque. 

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So if I fit these I will save my bike from damage?
There will almost certainly be damage of some kind but they greatly reduce your risk.

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Well if there are no guarantees then why not leave it to my insurance company to worry about?
You will pay for it somewhere along the line in excesses and premium hikes.

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Will fitting crash protectors invalidate my warranty?
Technically, yes, but so do virtually all modifications (even the fitting of many “Genuine accessories”), and your claim for a rusting exhaust can hardly be connected. The manufacturer would lose in a court battle.

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Surely anodised aluminium protectors would look better?
These are prone to “digging in” (can flip bike) and can also produce sparks in a crash, dangerously close to escaping fuel.

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I've seen crash protectors for my Bandit which bolt to the side of the cylinder head. These look nicer.
These are prone to tearing off the cylinder head and leading to a “write-off”, as the Bandit engine is not supported at the top.

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Is there a bar going right through the bike?
On some models, such as VFR800, V-Tec, TL1000S, SV650, SP1, SP2, Firestorm, Monster, 748-999 and the MV Agusta lower set. On most machines this is not necessary.

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Do the protectors spin round?
No, this is a gimmick that has recently appeared on the market. The problem with this is that a spinning protector will often keep the bike moving for longer in a crash, while the idea of R&G protectors is to scrub speed as quickly as possible and thus minimise damage.

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On my VFR800, V-Tec, ZX6R '95-'02, ZX9 C1-E2 is it true I need to change my expansion tank bottle?
Yes, replace it with the new one provided in the kit (which has been modified with a plastic-welded trim or hole).

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Can I get “lower protectors” for bikes other than R1, R6, RSV, Falco, Brutale, Tuono or Agusta?
No, in most cases there is not a suitable mounting point and the fitment would hinder rear braking and gear changing.

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If I want to fit an R&G toe guard do I need to drill into the underside of the swingarm? Won't that weaken it?
Yes you do and no it won't. Almost all competitive superbikes have this modification and if it weakened the swingarm it would not be mandatory for ACU rules.

  


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